XXY PRESENTS: Lucky Little Blighters

XXY PRESENTS: Lucky Little Blighters

XXY PRESENTS: Lucky Little Blighters

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After retiring her last label, Maura Heslop Jewellery, over ten years ago, she has made a triumphant return with her 2014 collection, the ‘Lucky Little Blighters’.

Kwaten has not been idle during her hiatus. Her new jewellery is made using the ancient technique of lost wax casting. It’s a tricky process, which is reflected in the delicacy of the pieces. She works primarily in silver, brass and gold plate, and the collection is minimalistic in the most dramatic way possible.

Kwaten says she was inspired by “things that make my stomach churn! A dripping candle at Shoreditch House, rose thorns and twigs… haute couture fashion shoots.” These influences are plain to see. The jagged shapes of rose branches twine around wrists and over arms in a high-fashion imitation of prison tattoos.

The lookbook is like a fairytale for a modern punk princess. There’s something organic and lovely about the cascade of thorns down the pale neck of a model. It conjures images of Sleeping Beauty in the forest, adorned with silver.

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The images come across as iconography; a crown of thorns, a chain veil over pale hair, a Star of David. There is something angelic about it, but it’s also sinfully human. No archangel has ever worn a spiked septum ring (to our knowledge at least).

The collection is romantic in a thoroughly modern way. Simple chunks of moulded silver are transformed, and rose petals look even more vulnerable when placed next to a pair of spiked earrings. It’s the kind of jewellery a city cousin of the wood nymph would wear, both naturalistic and urban.

The juxtaposition of sacred relics and street style forms a collection that’s not easily forgotten. Whoever gets to wear Kwaten’s creations is a lucky little blighter indeed.

Images courtesy of Lewis&Leigh PR

Text by: Cassie Doney