Omer Asim AW/16

Omer Asim AW/16

While seemingly minimalist in all aspects, as the models sat or stood in a silent space before a black backdrop, looking pensive and serene, the details at Omer Asim’s presentation were impeccable. Pleats, fringing and draping were all used in a manner which treated the figure as if it were an architectural structure. Considering Asim previously studied at the prestigious Bartlett School of Architecture, it’s unsurprising that he would look at the human body and the different ways, shapes and textures can be incorporated onto it.

The use of simple accessories helped to accent the outfits and reinforced a narrative. What this tale was exactly remained unclear but it was certainly a meditative and private one.

Although there was a muted palette throughout – particularly evident in the simple make-up – the use of black against white did bring to mind Kazimir Malevich’s Black square paintings. Created over a hundred years ago, the iconic piece of modern art clearly continues to influence those in the field of art and design.

As well as connotations of abstract art, the collection did seem to nod at neo-classical sensibilities. Features such as wood and the use of braiding on the female model’s hair, in addition to the intricate pleating, felt very Grecian. Like the Ancient Greeks’ fascination between the body and the mind, Asim trained as a psychoanalyst and has long been interested in how clothing relates to these two factors of the human psyche.

The Sudanese native remains at the forefront of merging fashion design and art in an avant-garde manner that both sexes are invited to wear.


Written by Victoria Rodrigues,

Culture Editor


Photographs by Kavita Babbar