It’s very rare nowadays for women to accept their inner Princess. Not the Cinderella kind who waits for the perfect pretty boy prince, (do you know how high rent for a tower guarding a dragon with an accommodating step-mother would cost? And who has that much free time, really?) or parades in a mere flower crown, but one who captures Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli Tudor royalty for S/S 14.
Designers have been playing the alphabet game and the “e” word, embellishment, has been the referee. Katrantzou used mannish brogues as the focal print on short skirts and V-necked blazers, which transformed into why shoes should be taken off in the summer as the ground in Katrantzou’s next inspiration meant bejewelled, a-line and high waisted, almost plump dresses, besotted in the so-called embellished trend. As Katrantzou was creating tangible wonder, Valentino showed us the folkesy side of a medieval Princess, with embroidered colourful flowers over black net and lace. Although, Elie Saab’s collection wasn’t surprising, his ever present penchant for elegance coursed through high necked jewelled detail, across red tones and black; On a personal note, no one clarifies feminine beauty in a more ethereal way than Saab.
But embellishment doesn’t always have to be feminine, as “Y” occurred in Marc Jacobs’ farewell final collection for Louis Vuitton after sixteen years of working for the brand. As the show ended in extravagance- darkened peacock shaped ruffles and that “e” word again: how could Jacobs’ not make a statement, as he did in 1997 taking photographs of the mass of photographers capturing the beginning of his now legendary career.
Text: Tahmina Begum