The Favourite Five at Marangoni Graduate Fashion Show 2016

The Favourite Five at Marangoni Graduate Fashion Show 2016

As the Istituto Marangoni is recognised for being a fashion and design school with a close knit international family, much was anticipated for its graduate fashion show of 2016 and much exceeded the expectations. Here are our favourite five graduate designers you need to remember.

Let’s start with menswear. And let’s start a fire. Tugba Ak did both of these things. With the first look showing denim just as we like it – raw – with the crawlings of what appeared to look like a forest fire at the cuffs of the new double denim piece. However, when seen up close, this theme of coloured fire mimicked splattered paint. Yet the most innovative idea Ak brought to the show was progressing this conversation with denim and where it is heading next as well as doing the same for the suit aesthetic. By blurring the lines between high fashion and ready-to-wear, Ak made a collection comfortable and wearable for her consumer, keeping our eyes alight throughout the entire show.

Keeping on the menswear train, Christean Yanting Zhang’s mini revolution erupted at the Istituto Marangoni graduate collective. With the designer’s focus on looser and may I say “wavier” shapes, at the centre of the show was the reinvention of key pieces. Whether it was the camel coat, the pinstripe or large cuffed trousers revealing fearless sock showing – Zhang’s refresh button became a hit for menswear across graduate fashion week itself. And, let’s not forget the key which enhanced all of this: the rope detail tying it all in.

Susu Chen, however, became a personal favourite, instantly. Whilst wondering for months now what the perfect graduation attire could be, out comes a bolt of lightning – if it was an emoji. It appears the Kawaii girl is all grown up but has not forgotten her roots in puffy silhouettes adorned with stars and pop art shapes.

Now, if Christian Dior had a granddaughter who understood his roots but wanted to change up the family image, it would look something like Asante Akua’s graduate collection. With playful, is the cup half full or half empty type of gowns distorting the silhouette of the pieces depending on which side you looked at it from, this collection simply bloomed. It was not just creative in making the actual flower into a sleeve instead of its mere print, but there was a certain flare in the craftsmanship as well as being fun. Ten out of Ten, Akua.

Lastly, we cannot forget about Ines Suelves Osorio, the winner of the Best Fashion Design collection prize. This collection did everything Istituto Marangoni stands for: understanding tailoring enough to distort it, making sure there is a story within the beginnings of one’s career as a designer, but also making sure everyone in the room remembers your collection when they think back to the show.

With the emphasis on using overly “masculine” broad silhouettes for her womenswear ensemble, Osorio styled tweed lapels to tuck into pink leather bibs; the utilitarian mantra also manifested its way into pockets large enough to fit the kitchen sink and cupboard.

In the least cliché way, Osorio’s collection was about girl power without a need to state “girl” before the word “power”. It was fifth wave feminism in a few garments. Gurl, come through.  


Written by Tahmina Begum,

CEO and Editor-in-Chief


Photographs via Pause Magazine, Boy Meets Fashion and Istituto Marangoni Instagram